- Day-1 the start of the Inca Trail
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| Train to Machu Picchu - the easy way |
We as a group had of course chosen to trek the 44km (28 miles) along the Inca Trail. The distance has been covered in about 3.5hrs, but we'd chosen to do it in a far more leisurely 3.5 days.
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| The group start preparing for the trek |
It was here we were joined by our porters, the party now totalled 37 people (13 of us, 2 guides, 19 porters, 1 head porter and 2 cooks), oh plus one bear (Paddington did walk the Inca Trail).
The trail is now governed by strict regulations, only 500 people can be on the trail in any one day and a porter can carry a maximum of 25kg, permits and weights are checked daily.
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| The start of The Inka Trail (only 44km to go) |
From here, the bus was unloaded and the porters packs divided up and weighed, we left at about 09.00 for the short walk to the official start at kilometre 82, where there was just time to pose for the obligatory group photo.
Following the Urubamba and the train line we headed down to check-in (permits & passports are verified and stamped), crossing the river we were now on our way. The time was now 09.10 and we had 12km to go and about 350m to climb before we reached our first nights camp.
The first section of the trail follows the river with a gentle climb through scrub land of cacti and bushes, this gives you a chance to get used to both the altitude (2,600m) and the scenery, before the real tests to come. After a short while we spot our first Inca site, whilst seeming small, it was vital in the grand scheme. Dotted along this stretch of the trail are numerous small villages, the locals use the trail as a business opportunity, after all they have a captive market (us the tourist), 1 sol for the loo and 4 sols for a bottle of water is the going rate (the price gets higher the higher up you go).
After a few hours of walking at a gentle, steady pace (slowly but surely is the secret of this walk), we reach Miskay and lunch.
The service is brilliant, the tent is already up the table laid, all you do is turn up, sit down and eat (soup, salad and rolls is the norm). After that it’s siesta time, the porters do all the work.
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| Inca store houses |
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| The locals take advantage of the business opportunity |
After a few hours of walking at a gentle, steady pace (slowly but surely is the secret of this walk), we reach Miskay and lunch.
The service is brilliant, the tent is already up the table laid, all you do is turn up, sit down and eat (soup, salad and rolls is the norm). After that it’s siesta time, the porters do all the work.
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| Day-1 was all cacti & scenary |
After a break the path flattens out, ahead of us is what appears to be sheer drop. We stop, the guide tells us to join hands, close our eyes and walk forward (we’re we to be a human sacrifice?). No, we opened our eyes to Patallacta on the opposite side of the valley ahead.
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| Our view of Patallacta |
The path at this point turns left up a side valley. It was 1 o’clock in the afternoon and the path was slowly getting steeper and the going getting tougher. There were about 2 hours of walking to go before camp. We were now following a small stream, up and up we went (or at least that’s what it seemed), passing further Inca sites, until we reached Hatunchaca, only 1km to go and 100m to climb. From there it was a quick sprint (okay 30 mins) to Huayllabamba and our camp for the night, we were at 2,954m tired but happy.
The site was up, 3 man tents for us and the guides, 2 large tents for eating, cooking and the porters, plus 2 small loo tents (no. 14 for the ladies & no. 15 for the gents), just bear in mind you are in a field with no running water and no electricity.
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| Our camp site on day-1 (note the loo tents back right) |
The local farmer’s children were already there, selling bottles of beer and water (Lord Sugar would have been proud of them). Once we settled in and chosen our tents bowls of hot water and cups of tea were delivered to our doorsteps, very civilised.
Afternoon tea was served at 6.00, with a choice of tea, coffee or chocolate plus biscuits, dinner was to be at 7.00.
Afternoon tea was served at 6.00, with a choice of tea, coffee or chocolate plus biscuits, dinner was to be at 7.00.
The food throughout the trip was excellent, dinner was always a 3-course meal, usually vegetable soup, followed by meat, veg and either rice or potatoes (yes there was vegy option) and a dessert was something special (flambé pancakes with chocolate sauce & rum and creme caramel were just an example). Seconds were always available we certainly woudn't starve.
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| Two giant travel potties (black for no. 1's & white for no. 2's) |
The food throughout the trip was excellent, dinner was always a 3-course meal, usually vegetable soup, followed by meat, veg and either rice or potatoes (yes there was vegy option) and a dessert was something special (flambé pancakes with chocolate sauce & rum and creme caramel were just an example). Seconds were always available we certainly woudn't starve.
Wake up call tomorrow was to be 05.30, breakfast at 06.00 and on the road by 06.30 at the latest.
In best Inca Trail tradition we were woken up with a mug of hot coca tea (normal tea or coffee is available). Once up it was time to re-pack your bags and sort out your rucksack for the day. Breakfast today was bacon and eggs, with toast or rolls and marmalade (Paddington had found his marmalade sandwiches)
We set off at about 06.30, passing through the daily checkpoint on the way. The path began to climb immediately and the sun was getting hotter.
The trek had now entered an area of cloud forest, whilst this provided some welcome shade, the slopes were becoming steeper and harder to climb.
The group began to fragment, the hardened walkers permeated to the front with one of the guides taking the lead. The remainder tagged along behind with the other guide taking up the rear.
Again slowly but surely was the plan, an hours walk then a break, the climb up was relentless.
Lunch on day-2 was at Llulluchapampa (at 3,784m ), the time was 11.00 and we’d climbed 700m since breakfast. You could actually see how far we’d climbed and also of how far we had to go. This was also the last spot where you could buy water, sports drinks etc. the sellers were everywhere and the price was at its highest. The site even had proper loos for those with the need.
- Day-2 the steep climb to Dead Woman’s Pass
Day-2 was to be the shortest, but toughest day of the trek. This involved the 1,300m climb up to Dead Woman’s Pass (and no it has nothing to do with the amount of women who had died there), followed by a steep 700m descent to our camp at Pacamayu.
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| Paddington enjoying his marmalade |
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| the path through the cloud forest |
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| You can see how steep & uneven the steps were |
We set off at about 06.30, passing through the daily checkpoint on the way. The path began to climb immediately and the sun was getting hotter.
The trek had now entered an area of cloud forest, whilst this provided some welcome shade, the slopes were becoming steeper and harder to climb.
The group began to fragment, the hardened walkers permeated to the front with one of the guides taking the lead. The remainder tagged along behind with the other guide taking up the rear.
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| Llulluchapampa - our lunch stop in day-2 |
Again slowly but surely was the plan, an hours walk then a break, the climb up was relentless.
Lunch on day-2 was at Llulluchapampa (at 3,784m ), the time was 11.00 and we’d climbed 700m since breakfast. You could actually see how far we’d climbed and also of how far we had to go. This was also the last spot where you could buy water, sports drinks etc. the sellers were everywhere and the price was at its highest. The site even had proper loos for those with the need.
The porters had again arrived before us and lunch was ready, soup and salad, very nice and very needed, the coca tea was now becoming addictive. After a short rest it was now time to tackle the 500m steep ascent to the top. The altitude was now beginning to tell, again we split into smaller groups of people with a similar pace, walk for a bit, rest and walk a bit more. The path became steeper with the steps more uneven, but by using this approach everyone reached the pass (4,234m up) we were all elated, Machu Picchu here we come.
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| The view back from the top |
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| Dead Woman's Pass |
By the time we reached the top it was about 3.30, two or so hours of daylight left and we still had the tricky ascent to our camp. The way ahead was steep uneven steps, those who were confident at walking downhill sped off leaving some to take things at a more gingerly pace. As the time flew on some needed help the guide radio’d ahead and hey presto up turns a porter to carry our rucksacks, this certainly made things a lot easier.
It was about 5.00 and semi-darkness when everyone finally made it to the camp at Pacamayu, it had been a very tiring day. But after a foot soak and a mug of tea the elation was evident, the hardest day was done, bring on day-3.
The highlight of that nights entertainment was trying to explain why we’d bought Paddington to Peru initially to the guides and then for them to translate it to the porters, he had become an instant hit with everyone.
Needless to say day-3 was to be another early start.
Day-3 dawned bright and early again we were woken at 5.00 with bowls of hot water and a cup of coca tea. Breakfast today was porridge with rolls and marmalade, washed down with more tea.
Today’s walk involved a trek of nearly 14km including an initial climb up to nearly 4,000m. We started at about 07.00, again checking in at the next checkpoint. The day started with a steep climb up to Runcu Raccay at 3,784m, we could clearly see our site from previous night below. From there we continued to climb passed a small lake, where we stopped for a break, and on up to the second pass, which we reached in about 3 hours. Along the way you could clearly see the outline of yesterday’s pass (in the shape of a woman lying down), hence the name “dead woman’s pass”.
From the top it was a gradual descent, steep and uneven at first, but there were some flatish bits, through scrub land dotted with brightly coloured orchids, down to Sayac Marca. We stopped on a promintary with Sayac Marca on our left overlooking another site and the path stretching ahead.
The pattern of the previous day had been repeated, with the group again splitting depending on walking speeds and their confidence walking downhill.
After our rest is was decided that the slower ones amongst us would go on ahead to lunch, about an hours walk away, whereas the rest would pay a visit to the ruins.
The third and final pass was ahead, it was natural bridge between two valleys but despite the lateness in the afternoon it was still shrouded in mist. From here it was just a short walk, about 10 mins, to our camp for the night perched high over the valley above Phuyupatamarca.
- Day-3 The final two passes
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| The start of day-3 another steep climb |
Today’s walk involved a trek of nearly 14km including an initial climb up to nearly 4,000m. We started at about 07.00, again checking in at the next checkpoint. The day started with a steep climb up to Runcu Raccay at 3,784m, we could clearly see our site from previous night below. From there we continued to climb passed a small lake, where we stopped for a break, and on up to the second pass, which we reached in about 3 hours. Along the way you could clearly see the outline of yesterday’s pass (in the shape of a woman lying down), hence the name “dead woman’s pass”.
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| Runcu Raccay |
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| Orange Orchids |
From the top it was a gradual descent, steep and uneven at first, but there were some flatish bits, through scrub land dotted with brightly coloured orchids, down to Sayac Marca. We stopped on a promintary with Sayac Marca on our left overlooking another site and the path stretching ahead.
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| Sayac Marca |
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| Lunch day-3 |
After our rest is was decided that the slower ones amongst us would go on ahead to lunch, about an hours walk away, whereas the rest would pay a visit to the ruins.
We reached lunch at 12.30, the site at Chaquiccocha again offered splendid views of the area. Not only this the cook had surpassed himself today, on top of the usual soup and salad, there was also guacamole as well, the feast was enjoyed by all.
The path after lunch hugged the contours of the mountain side, undulating slightly but mainly staying at between 3,600 and 3,700 m. This proved to be a very pleasant walk, initially starting through a further area of cloud forest but continuing through an Inca tunnel. The views would have been spectacular on a clear day but the mist, caused by the farmers burning parts of the forest, shrouded everything. In fact it gave a rather eerie atmosphere to the whole trek.
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| The valley shrouded in mist |
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| Our site on day-3 |
During the day rumours had abounded that there was threatened strike action in Cusco planned for the day after next. The dispute was apparently over water and government plans to build a dam. If the strike went ahead the whole area would be paralysed, nothing would be running and roads would be blockaded. The guides had checked this out and called a meeting for after dinner.
The rumours were true, the strike was planned for midnight tomorrow. The choice was ours, the alternatives were to either continue with our itinerary, up at 05.30, a gentle walk to Machu Picchu for mid afternoon, then camp over night and re-visit the ruins for dawn on the following day. Or we could get up early tomorrow walk to Machu Picchu for lunchtime, have a tour of the site in the afternoon and get out on which ever train we can that evening.
Our decision was unanimous let’s do everything tomorrow and get out before the strike. So a 04.30 start it was.
From the camp we descended steeply down to the ruins at Phuyupatamacra, before continuing onwards down the infamous Inca steps and through an Inca tunnel to Winay Wayna some 700m below all of this in a distance of just over 5km. The pace was slow but steady with the last of us reaching the ruins some 2 hours later, we were on schedule to reach the sun gate by midday.
After a brief rest to see the Inca site, we left Winay Wayna for the final leg down to Intipunco (the sun gate).
Whilst there were still a few steps the path was a lot flatter and easier going, this was helped by the fact we were now down at nearly 2,700m for the first time in 4 days. As in all good walks there is one final sting in the tail an almost vertical series steps up, just before you reach the sun gate, but don’t worry it’s over in a few minutes.
At this stage we still did not know if we had a train out, so the plan was to have our lunch at the foot of the site and then to have a full afternoon’s tour. After managing to push our way through the crowds of tourists coming into the site we found a spot for lunch, those that wanted grabbed a beer from the café as we sat down to a lunch of pasta salad and jelly (god knows how our chief cook did it, but yes we had jelly)
The only thing I can say is you just have to see it for yourself!!!
We left Machu Picchu at about 6.00 for the bus journey to Aguas Calientes, a small town has grown up here purely to cater for the tourists who come to see Machu Picchu.
We still did not know which train we were going to catch (if any), the only alternative was for us to walk the 2km back down a dusty road to the campsite carrying everything we owned, to cap it all it was raining. Having thrown everything in a local restaurant, what to do now? Go shopping for souvenirs, visit the local hot springs or stay there and have a beer (or 2). All 3 options were utilised.
- Day-4 Machu Picchu & the way out
Day-4 was to be an extremely long day, it started at 04.30 and would not finish until well after midnight, the big question was would be able to do everything we’d planned and get back to Cusco.
The day dawned early, by 05.15 everybody was ready to go and the tents were being taken down. It was a 14km walk to Machu Picchu, virtually all of it downhill. The plan was that the faster walkers would go on ahead, with the slower ones being assisted by one of the guides and a porter.
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| Phuyupatamacra |
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| Winay Wayna |
Whilst there were still a few steps the path was a lot flatter and easier going, this was helped by the fact we were now down at nearly 2,700m for the first time in 4 days. As in all good walks there is one final sting in the tail an almost vertical series steps up, just before you reach the sun gate, but don’t worry it’s over in a few minutes.
The sense of raw emotion and achievement when you reach intipunco is there for all to see, you’ve done it! You’ve walked one of the iconic treks in the world, the sight before you is the stuff picture postcards are made of.
After everyone had calmed down, it was time for more group photos and brief rest before the descent to the site itself, that is still some hour away a further 300m below you.
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| Machu Picchu (from the sun gate) |
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| Lunch at Machu Picchu |
The time was now nearly 1.00 and we were re-entering the site, we were tired and dirty, after 4 days of walking and everyone else seemed clean having just stepped off the train, but you were so pleased to be there that it didn’t matter. The site is amazing any words I give it will not do it justice. The sheer scale of the buildings and the ingenuity and engineering that took to construct this place leaves one in awe. The one fact I will always remember is that it was only inhabited for less than 100 years and it was never finished.
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| Terracing at Machu Picchu |
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| Looking down into the valley below at Machu Picchu |
The only thing I can say is you just have to see it for yourself!!!
We still did not know which train we were going to catch (if any), the only alternative was for us to walk the 2km back down a dusty road to the campsite carrying everything we owned, to cap it all it was raining. Having thrown everything in a local restaurant, what to do now? Go shopping for souvenirs, visit the local hot springs or stay there and have a beer (or 2). All 3 options were utilised.
Eventually good news arrived, we had tickets for the 9.30 train out, the bad news was that the strike was now due to start at midnight and we could be blocked from entering Cusco. There was no real alternative, so next stop was dinner complete with music and wine, before grabbing our bags for the walk to the train station.
The scene at the station was like something out of a war movie, everybody was trying to get out. The two jobs worths at the gate were checking everybody’s tickets and passports, (with armed security carefully watching on). The whole thing seemed to take ages, once on the platform your tickets were checked yet again, they were then checked a 3rd time before you even got on the train.
We made it and the train left at about 10.00, we were knackered, so a spot of rest was in order. The train had 3 extra carriages, it was slow progress up the single track line. We stopped at least twice to allow trains to pass going the other way, so we weren’t the last train out.
Eventually we arrived at Ollantaytambo, it was chaos. It seemed everybody was getting off here, forming a human chain we threw all our bags off the train, it was then grab your bag and rucksack and off up the narrow cobbled street to our bus. It was mayhem, street was full of cars and buses fighting to get as near to the station as possible. Our driver luckily had parked at the top of the street, so apart from dodging the traffic, all we had to do was walk. The rest of the journey was quite uneventful.
Eventually we arrived at Ollantaytambo, it was chaos. It seemed everybody was getting off here, forming a human chain we threw all our bags off the train, it was then grab your bag and rucksack and off up the narrow cobbled street to our bus. It was mayhem, street was full of cars and buses fighting to get as near to the station as possible. Our driver luckily had parked at the top of the street, so apart from dodging the traffic, all we had to do was walk. The rest of the journey was quite uneventful.
We finally made it back to Cusco for about 02.00 we’d been up for nearly 22 hours.
