- Part-3 Escape to Amantani Island
The itinerary had changed, because of the strike action. The strike was still on hardly anything except the tourist shops were operating, many of the roads had been blockaded and protesters and riot police were on the streets.
So we had a free day, we were in no danger, the only advice was to stay away from the main square, the shops, bars and restaurants otherwise were open for business. The Peruvians rely on tourism, particularly in Cusco.
This also gave us an opportunity for a lie in and a chance to recover from our aches and pains. The day was therefore spent at leisure.
The day after was very much the same, the road blockades had prevented us from travelling to Puno, we therefore decided to see some of the other sights of the town.
The walk took us down to the main square (no protesters, just riot police) and down the Avenue De Sol, the parades were just starting and businesses in this area were operating with an air of caution.
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| The riot police were ready |
Our target was a huge Inca statue perched on a hill above town, once we’d left town the climb up was through the poorer areas of town, no-body was working, the kids were playing football, the mood seemed very peaceful.
Whilst the end result was not much to look at, drug users had evidently taken over the area at night and some of the stonework had been permanently borrowed, the walk had allowed us to stretch our legs.
Whilst the end result was not much to look at, drug users had evidently taken over the area at night and some of the stonework had been permanently borrowed, the walk had allowed us to stretch our legs.
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| Protesters on the Avenue De Sol |
The guide eventually came to us with some good news that afternoon, the word was the army were going to clear the bridge overnight. The plan was to get up early and leave by 05.30, hopefully we could get through and onto Lake Titicaca.
We were used to it so 05.00 breakfast was no problem, everything was loaded onto the bus and we were off. The journey to Juliaca was to take about 7 hrs, from there it was on to Lake Titicaca and a night on Amantani island.
On the way we stopped at Racchi a pre-Inca settlement for a tour of the site and a chance to walk around.
The drama really began when we reached Sicuani, lorries were queuing back down the main street, the bridge was evidently still blocked (yes the blockade had been lifted overnight, but it was now back in place).
No problem the driver was confident, he knew a short cut, another route round the blockade. Off we went down the side streets and onto this dirt track at first we were unconcerned, but when some youths starting throwing stones at the bus, things became a little more tense.
The guide suggested we drew the curtains and covered our heads with the blankets (some took her more literally than others), somehow we still felt okay. Still travelling along the track we rounded a corner and came to halt, the protesters had blocked this road as well. The driver and our two guides got off to try and persuade them to let us through, for a tense 20 minutes or so (it seemed like longer) we weren’t sure what was happening. Had they been kidnapped? were we going to get through?
Eventually they came back, the protesters were going to let us through. Up to the blockade we drove, in a final act of defiance we were stopped again, they daubed anti-presidential slogans across the windscreen.
The drama really began when we reached Sicuani, lorries were queuing back down the main street, the bridge was evidently still blocked (yes the blockade had been lifted overnight, but it was now back in place).
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| The Pre-Inca walls at Racchi |
The guide suggested we drew the curtains and covered our heads with the blankets (some took her more literally than others), somehow we still felt okay. Still travelling along the track we rounded a corner and came to halt, the protesters had blocked this road as well. The driver and our two guides got off to try and persuade them to let us through, for a tense 20 minutes or so (it seemed like longer) we weren’t sure what was happening. Had they been kidnapped? were we going to get through?
Eventually they came back, the protesters were going to let us through. Up to the blockade we drove, in a final act of defiance we were stopped again, they daubed anti-presidential slogans across the windscreen.
We were through but were we free? Down the track we continued then rounding a bend we stopped! There was a tanker reversing down the track towards us, what to do now? Luckily for us there was farmers track to one side so we took that, that was blocked to, but a few coca leaves later we were free.
All that was left to do was to the bus over the railway line, the main road was 50m ahead. Off the bus we get we walk to the road, check the bus over (no real damage) and we're off.
All that was left to do was to the bus over the railway line, the main road was 50m ahead. Off the bus we get we walk to the road, check the bus over (no real damage) and we're off.
We were now behind schedule so to help us catch up it was decided we’d have lunch on the move. We were now crossing the altiplano, a desolate plain high up in the Andes, nothing seemed to grow there, just a few hungry cattle and potatoes.
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| The Altiplano - flat and desolate |
Lunch was like a chicken and potato layer cake, with veg and fruit, there was far too much for us to eat. The remains were collected together in one bag and given to some local children on their way to school, you should of seen their smiling faces.
Passing round Juliaca we couldn’t help noticing the state of the roads, they were in fact building the road round the traffic. Lorries were coming along dumping the gravel, bulldozers were smoothing it out all whilst cars and bicycles were driving along it. Apparently we were in the middle of a major building project, obviously the old mayor wanted to get re-elected (the elections were next month). At one point we even had to get off the bus to walk over a bridge whilst the bus drove through the dried up river below. What a crazy country.
The rest of the journey to Lake Titicaca was uneventful, but painfully slow, we eventually arrived at the dock at about 4.00. The beach nearby was full people having fun, it was just like the seaside. Just so different from what we seen on the way here. Climbing aboard the boat we were off to Amantani Island and our homestay for the night.
After our hectic trip so far, the island was peace and tranquillity, no cars just a few hundred people and even fewer sheep. The island seemed to rely on a mixture of farming and tourism. There were no hotels so the islanders put up the tourists in their homes.
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| Locals playing on the beach |
Our group was split up amongst four families, our house for the night was like a small hacienda, the bedrooms up above a small courtyard. Each room had 2 or 3 beds heavily ladened with blankets, under each bed was a chamber pot (just in case you get short in the night). There no electricity and the loo was round the back of the house. This was really quite luxurious and comfortable. Once we'd settled in we descended back to ground level to get to know the family, everybody was very friendly but our lack of Spanish and there limited English made conversation quite difficult (there English was far better then our Spanish).
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| The sun sets over Lake Titicaca |
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| Dancing the night away Peruvian style |
Once back down it was time for dinner, vegetable soup and potato stew (yes no meat) cooked over an open fire, we ate what the locals have. The evening was to be one of merriment and dancing, a local band were there and we were all dressed in local costumes, (some definitely fitted better then others). A camp fire was lit in the middle of the courtyard, the beer arrived and the music began. This was one hell of a way to end the day.
- Leaving Amantani Island
Our last full day in Peru was to be one of contrast, from the peace and tranquility of the island through sheer commercialism of the Uros islands and the incompleteness of Juliaca to finally the big city of Lima.
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| The peace & quiet of Amantani Island |
Again it was an early start, everything gets up with the sunrise. A quick walk before breakfast gave us the opportunity to see the island in daylight, a few people were already about but the peace and quiet was noticeable.
Breakfast was simple but delicious affair of corn pancakes, bread and jam, with of course a cup of tea. After that it was time to say goodbye to the family and an opportunity for them to sell you some of their handicrafts (after all it does supplement their earnings). The whole experience was just a complete contrast from what had been before and so worth while.
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| Leaving the island & across the Lake Titicaca |
It was now about 07.00 and time to leave the island. We walked down to the quay, where was our boat, we had the wrong jetty, so across the beach we went and onto our boat. We were early so it was back to the quay where we were joined by all the others. It was now a 2 hour journey to the floating reed islands of the Uros Indians. Along the way we would make the traditional offering of coca leaves to the gods of the lake for a smooth crossing.
The floating islands are constructed from reed beds, the roots are used to form the base and then the stems are piled on top to form a platform. The Uros Indians have lived this way for hundreds of years, nowadays half the islands are purely for the indians alone the other half are for tourism. Each guide has their own pet island, on which you land. The first experience is a strange one you appear to be walking on water, yes you are everything is floating. The islands are tied down so you wont float away.
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| The floating islands of the Uros Indians |
The whole experience of the Islands is a repeat of tourism all over the world, first the they introduce you to their culture, (I have to admit it was very enlightning), then they role out their handicrafts, plus you're invited into their houses (TV aerials and plasma TV's didn't quite fit the bill). You off course haggle over the price, but generally you buy. Next comes the opportunity for a ride on one of their reed boats. Rowing these boats proved very difficult but eventually we reached the neighbouring island and re-boarded our boat.
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| and their reed boats |
It was nearing lunch time and we were on our way to Puno for lunch and to pick up our suitcases.
The time was rushed when we reached Puno, so it was straight to the restaurant, lunch was ordered, then it was back to the hotel, load your suitcases onto the bus, and then back to eat lunch.
From Puno it was back to Juliaca and an internal flight to Lima. The road to Juliaca was fine, but once in town, the incompleteness of this place evident, nothing seemed to be finished. There was a market and parades going on the centre of town, so a detour round the suburbs took us out of the way, before we finally made it to the airport.
The flight before us was delayed so the tiny terminal building was packed, seating room on the floor only. We were lucky our flight was almost on time. After only a short delay we were off on our final flight to Lima and to our hotel in Miraflores.
The last supper was at the restaurant across the road, we swopped email addresses and gave a toast to our success. The final day was spent either wandering around Miraflores or on a city tour of Lima. It was then time for goodbyes, with the final group of 4 leaving the hotel at 6.30pm.
We'd had the holiday of a lifetime, there were the highs and the lows but above all the sense of achievement over rode everything - We'd Walked the Inca Trail !!!
The time was rushed when we reached Puno, so it was straight to the restaurant, lunch was ordered, then it was back to the hotel, load your suitcases onto the bus, and then back to eat lunch.
From Puno it was back to Juliaca and an internal flight to Lima. The road to Juliaca was fine, but once in town, the incompleteness of this place evident, nothing seemed to be finished. There was a market and parades going on the centre of town, so a detour round the suburbs took us out of the way, before we finally made it to the airport.
The flight before us was delayed so the tiny terminal building was packed, seating room on the floor only. We were lucky our flight was almost on time. After only a short delay we were off on our final flight to Lima and to our hotel in Miraflores.
The last supper was at the restaurant across the road, we swopped email addresses and gave a toast to our success. The final day was spent either wandering around Miraflores or on a city tour of Lima. It was then time for goodbyes, with the final group of 4 leaving the hotel at 6.30pm.
We'd had the holiday of a lifetime, there were the highs and the lows but above all the sense of achievement over rode everything - We'd Walked the Inca Trail !!!
